Oslo to Bergen via Flam offers travellers some of the most stunning scenery on the planet. The Bergensbanen, the Oslo to Bergen railway, is considered one of the most picturesque in Europe. However, enjoying much more of Norway’s spectacular vistas can be accomplished by disembarking at Myrdal to take the legendary Flam railway and a ferry to Bergen.
Note: Flåm (and Flåmsbana, the Flåm railway) includes a Norwegian letter, ‘å.’ Literature in English may use either the Norwegian or the English alphabet. For consistency, I’ll use the English alphabet.
Anyone researching travel in Norway will undoubtedly stumble across ‘Norway in a Nutshell,’ a trip involving travel by train, bus, and ferry. It comprises a fjord tour and the Bergen and Flam Railways. However, it’s possible to create a ‘DIY Norway in a Nutshell’ tailored to individual interests, budgets, and time constraints.
Table of Contents
What is Norway in a Nutshell?
Norway in a Nutshell is a tourist route involving a self-guided collection of transportation options exposing travellers to some of Norway’s finest scenery. There are variations, but the standard components include:
- Oslo-Bergen Railway
- Flam Railway
- Fjord Cruise on the Aurlandsfjørd and Naeroyfjord
- Bus trip between Gudvangen and Voss
Norway in a Nutshell is designed for travellers without the time or interest to research options and make separate bookings. Instead, Norway in a Nutshell comes in a simple and convenient package, bookable through Fjord Tours. It can be customised to reflect travellers’ interests, time, budgets, and starting points.
How to experience Norway in a Nutshell on a budget
My DIY Norway in a Nutshell was a cheaper version of the popular package.
It involved train travel from Oslo to Myrdal on the Bergensbanen, and the historic Flamsbana from Myrdal to Flam.
Staying overnight in Flam allowed us to explore the picturesque village and participate in a host of other activities. These included enjoying a drink at the Ægir brewery, visiting the Flamsbana museum, and taking a minibus ride to the Stegastein Viewpoint for spectacular views of the Aulandsfjord.
Then, the journey to Bergen involved a six-hour ferry ride from Flam on the NORLED ferry, MS Froya.
Oslo to Bergen via Flam
Here are the components of my DIY Norway in a Nutshell with additional information.
1. Bergensbanen, the Oslo to Bergen railway
Oslo to Myrdal is a journey of roughly six hours.
The Bergensbanen is Northern Europe’s highest railway that crosses the Hardangervidda National Park and the Hardangervidda plateau, Europe’s most extensive mountain plateau. The highest point is Finse Station, about 1,222 meters above sea level.
The rise in elevation resulted in a lowering of temperature, and a dramatic change in the landscape. In the third week of September, the temperature dropped from 16 to 10 Celsius (61 to 50 Fahrenheit).
Built between 1894 and 1909, the line passes through 182 tunnels, with the longest being the Finse tunnel, 10.3 kilometres (6.6 miles) long.
Along the way, the scenery is diverse and impressive.
2. Flamsbana, the Myrdal to Flam railway
From Myrdal, the historic Flamsbana takes the 20-kilometre branch line down to Flam on the Aurlandsfjord, an arm of the vast Sognefjord in Western Norway.
The Flam Railway offers panoramic views of some of the wildest and most spectacular scenery in Norway’s fjord country. This engineering marvel isn’t simply a means of transportation but an attraction on one of the steepest railway lines in the world. The National Geographic Traveler Magazine calls the Flam Railway one of the top 10 train journeys in Europe; Lonely Planet has named it the world’s best train ride.
On the 867-metre descent from Myrdal, the scenery constantly changed. Seating isn’t assigned, and passengers tend to move from one side of the train to the other to take in the views. When disembarking at Myrdal, try to be one of the first to board the train to Flam, ideally next to a window that opens.
A five-minute stop at Kjosfossen waterfall allowed passengers to step on the platform to take photographs.
Passengers seated on the left side of the train were treated to impressive views on the descent into Flam.
3. Stay overnight in Flam
An overnight stay in Flam offers a more relaxed pace of travel. I noticed that many passengers returned to Myrdal on the next train to continue the journey to Bergen (or on to Oslo).
Accommodation is available at various price points.
Flam Camping and Hostel offers budget accommodation, just 300 metres from the railway station. The family-owned business has a variety of accommodations, including RV and camping sites, hostel rooms with bathrooms (both shared and unshared), cabins, and a holiday house.
4. Things to do in Flam
The highlight of my overnight stop in Flam was taking a minivan up to the Stegastein Viewpoint. The 30-minute ride is part of the National Tourist Route, one of the stunning high-mountain roads in Norway.
The Stegastein platform juts 30 metres out from the mountainside. Aulandsfjord is 650 metres below, offering panoramic views of the fjord and the village of Aurland.
5. Flam to Bergen ferry
From Flam, the NORLED ferry with daily departures from April 1 to October 31, travels to Bergen along Norway’s longest and deepest fjord: the Sognefjord, also known as the ‘King of the Fjords.’
The journey from Flam to Bergen takes 5.5 hours.
A 15:30 departure in late September (September 23) meant only the first few hours were in daylight. I spent most of the daylight hours on deck dressed in multiple layers, soaking up the views and feeling grateful it wasn’t raining.
The successive layers of curtains formed by the mountains were impressive.
One of the stops was at Balestrand, where several passengers disembarked. Backed by peaks circled in cloud, Balestrand is noted for its fascinating architecture, hiking trails, and fjord and glacier trips to Fjærland and the Bøyabreen glacier.
Logistics
If you’re considering a DIY Norway in a Nutshell, the following information may be helpful.
- There are four to six departures by train each day from Oslo.
- On Sunday, September 22, 2024, the 08:25 train left from Track 3 and was scheduled to arrive in Myrdal at 13:04. It arrived late, and the departure from Myrdal to Flam was adjusted accordingly.
- Skip over Rail Ninja, Norway Trains, Rail Europe, or any other site that isn’t the national railway service of the Norwegian government and its Ministry of Transport and Communications (vy.no). Vy typically releases train tickets for sale 90 days before the departure date.
- Discounted fares are available, including a 50% discount for seniors (67 years or older). There is no discount on the Flamsbana. I booked a refundable ticket from Oslo to Myrdal; the ticket from Myrdal to Flam wasn’t refundable.
- Book accommodation in Flam as early as possible, especially if your stay is during peak periods.
- For budget accommodation, Flam Camping and Hostel is a short walk to facilities (300 metres to the train and ferry and 200 metres to restaurants and a grocery store). The views were superb, the private room had a bunk bed with an ensuite bathroom, and the cost was NOK 1050 (USD 103) for two people. The excellent communal kitchen and well-stocked Coop grocery store facilitate cobbling together meals for those on a budget.
- The NORLED ferry, MS Froya, departed Flam at 15:30 and arrived in Bergen at 20:45. The tickets were purchased at the NORLED site at the senior rate with a 50% discount, refundable up to 24 hours before departure.
- Before embarking on the Hurtigruten Norway Coastal Express voyage from Bergen to Kirkenes to Bergen on the MS Richard With, I stayed at the Heimen Hotel in an excellent downtown location with a superb breakfast and within walking distance of the cruise terminal.
Conclusion
An Oslo to Bergen via Flam journey is easy to organise with the correct booking sites (Vy and NORLED) that offer discounts that weren’t available at other sites. It compared favourably to a collection of self-guided bookings in a Norway in a Nutshell package but at a cheaper price.
Have you taken any part of this route? If so, how was your experience?
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