Two of New Zealand’s more recent additions to the country’s vast network of off-road cycling trails, the Roxburgh Gorge and Clutha Gold, follow the historic trails of Otago’s gold-mining past. Because one trail ends where the other begins, they can be combined to create a two-day or three-day adventure. Also, their proximity to the Otago Central Rail Trail means that hikers and cyclists can experience even more of Central Otago’s unique scenery and fascinating past.
Our experience
Such was our experience on a visit to New Zealand’s South Island. The three trails anchored several hiking and cycling adventures in the Otago Region. We were a group of eight sexagenarians from Australia and Canada. As such, it made sense to book with a tour planner for four days of self-guided cycling of all or part of the three trails.
Bike It Now, conveniently located in Clyde, was an obvious choice. Their tour package included various tour planning services, including bike rentals, shuttle services, jet-boat transfer, accommodation, and maps.
Clyde
Clyde is a picturesque town in the heart of Otago. We arrived in Clyde a day early to book into our accommodation, receive a briefing and materials at Bike It Now, and get kitted up with bikes and gear. With no drinking water or food services on the Roxburgh Gorge Trail, we needed to get ourselves organized and gather supplies for lunches and snacks.
The bike-friendly Clyde Central (formerly Antique Lodge Motel) was within walking distance of Bike It Now, with complimentary parking provided during the days we were cycling.
Roxburgh Gorge Trail
The Roxburgh Gorge Trail starts in Alexandra and ends at the Lake Roxburgh Hydro Dam. It involves 10 kilometres of cycling (or hiking) on the northern section starting in Alexandra and 11 kilometres on the southern section ending at the dam. In between is a 13-kilometre connection by jet boat.
Our experience was a little different by starting in Clyde and ending in the town of Roxburgh. This added 12 kilometres from Clyde to Alexandra and 11 kilometres from the dam to Roxburgh.
The river trail between Clyde and Alexandra was mostly flat, with a few boardwalks and bridges closer to Alexandra. With a high of 30 degrees expected, we appreciated the dappled shade of riverside willows.
Alexandra to Doctor’s Point
The northern section of the Roxburgh Gorge Trail starts at Alexandra’s Blue Bridge. Standing stoic in the river beside the bridge are the stranded piers of the original suspension bridge built in 1882. Monuments to a vibrant history, they’re a fitting introduction to the trail built on the heels of prospectors seeking their fortunes. The cycleway follows the impressive Clutha Mata-au River, starting rather tamely through a forest of silver poplars. It then enters the narrow gorge with the trail etched out of the rocky side.
It was a somewhat sudden transition to the rugged and remote landscape. The river was a dazzling blend of aqua and turquoise, and the trail snaked around rocky outcrops, wide in some places but narrow in others.
It was another hot day in the early thirties, and shade was at a premium. On breaks, we grabbed what little was available.
Bluffs rise almost 350 metres on both sides of the river. The trail was hard packed in places, and loose gravel covered the surface in others.
Some parts of the trail were so narrow and so steep that signs advised cyclists to walk their bikes.
Safety barricades protect sharp hairpin turns close to the edge. It was on switchbacks like this that walking bikes was the safer option.
On the first section of the ride between Alexandra and Doctor’s Point, there were a few climbs, but mostly, the trail maintained a fairly consistent altitude above the river.
Jet-boat transfer from Doctor’s Point to Shingle Creek
There’s a gap in the trail (as in no trail) between Doctor’s Point and Shingle Creek. The Kiwis have an obvious solution: ‘Cycle Jet.’ Our booking for the jet-boat transfer was coordinated by Bike It Now.
Dave met us at Doctor’s Point for the 13-kilometre boat ride down to Shingle Creek. There’s a toilet and a jetty at Doctor’s Point and very little shade. We scrambled amongst brush to commandeer what little shade there was while we waited for the jet boat. On the opposite bank were tailings from a gold mining past.
The bikes were quickly loaded on the rear bike rack of the boat, and we climbed aboard, kitted out in life jackets.
The jetty made loading and boarding a breeze. Dave is a competent operator who seems to have a solid knowledge of the river. It provided the opportunity to experience the gorge from the water. The 45-minute ride down the historic waterway was perfect for learning more about the gold rush days of the 1860s. His commentary was most informative, with lots of interesting tidbits.
Several schist dwellings remain on the slopes above the river. How harsh it must have been for those early prospectors with minus 20-degree winters and very little firewood. Dave maneuvered the boat for better views of the difficult-to-see buildings camouflaged against rocky outcrops.
One of the most impressive is the 1860s mud-and-rock dwelling known as Mrs Heron’s cottage. It was part of a large gold-mining area called Fourteen-Mile Beach. During the peak period of the gold rush of the 1860s and 1870s, the settlement was home to up to 1600 prospectors. Henry and Harriet Heron’s cottage was on higher land and survived the flooding of the gorge in 1956 when the dam was built. Unfortunately, other dwellings disappeared under the lake, and Mrs Heron’s Cottage is all that remains of a once-thriving community.Harriet Heron is remembered as one of the few women who lived in the gold mining camps during the gold rush.
The occasional splashes from the abrupt stops, starts, and turns of the jet boat were welcome.
The jet-boat transfer was a refreshing break from cycling, adding another layer of interest to the experience.
Shingle Creek to the Roxburgh Dam
The southern section of the trail from Shingle Creek to the Roxburgh Dam is 11 kilometres long. Lots of switchbacks and a mixture of steep and steady climbs pushes the trail from easy (grade 2) to intermediate (grade 3). Unlike the northern section, the southern part climbs much higher up the walls of the gorge, with the highest elevations at 237 metres above the river.
Image compliments of Trailforks
One advantage of the climbs is being treated to spectacular vistas from the higher vantage points.
Each bend offered a different view of the river below.
There are plenty of picturesque places for breaks. The river slows and widens as it approaches the dam.
The Aussie crew from Cairns were pros on the climbs; the Canadians, not so good. All-year cycling in tropical North Queensland has its benefits. Still, a leisurely walk up the switchbacks gets a person there eventually.
The Roxburgh Gorge Trail ends at the Lake Roxburgh Hydro Dam. Because our overnight accommodation was at the Roxburgh Motel, it meant cycling the extra distance from the dam into Roxburgh. As a result, it was a 44-kilometre cycling day (22 kilometres from Clyde to Doctor’s Point and 22 kilometres from Shingle Creek to Roxburgh).
What to pack
Where the Roxburgh Gorge Trail ends, the Clutha Gold Trail begins. Our group elected to combine both trails with overnight stays in Roxburgh and Ettrick. We left our vehicles and gear in Clyde and booked Bike It Now’s shuttle service to return us to Clyde from the end of the Clutha Gold Trail at Beaumont.
This meant that space was at a premium. Everything we needed for three days had to fit in our rear carrier trunk bags (and water bottle cradles). One feature to be appreciated about adventures that involve cycling and hiking is that no one needs to be a fashion queen or king. Wear the basics, pack a spare, wash what can be washed and dried overnight, and if it’s damp in the morning, depending on the season, it could probably be worn.
- There are no drinking water or food services on the Roxburgh Gorge Trail. Pack lots of water and lunch and snacks to be entirely self-sufficient.
- The official Roxburgh Gorge Trail map pinpoints landmarks.
- Bike It Now provided our group with a puncture repair kit and a basic tool kit.
- There are toilets at Doctor’s Point and Shingle Creek but don’t count on toilet paper. Pack your own.
- The trail is open year round. The area can see the hottest and coldest temperatures in New Zealand. Check the weather forecast and wear or pack layers for layering up and down.
- New Zealand has the highest skin cancer rate in the world. For sun protection during our February ride, we each packed sunscreen, chill sleeves, a Buff, sun hat, and sunglasses. In addition, I packed a sunblock stick and constantly applied it to susceptible areas. It was much more accessible and convenient to apply (and much appreciated given the temperature and lack of shade along the trail).
- A pocket or phone camera that takes decent photos takes up less space than a DSLR. My Panasonic Lumix DMC ZS200 has earned its keep on many trips and helps me stay within carry-on limits.
- Pack a cell phone, although coverage was only available at the ends of the trail.
The verdict
Placing ourselves in the hands of Bike It Now was an excellent decision. They have on-the-ground knowledge of the trails and service providers, and they’re very good at what they do.
For me, the southern end of the Roxburgh Gorge Trail was difficult, but the stunning scenery was worth it. The jet-boat ride and commentary were definite highlights.
Have your hiked or cycled New Zealand’s Roxburgh Gorge Trail? If so, what was your experience?
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