“So let me get this straight. You could have flown business class on points, on a direct flight from Sydney to Cairns for $25 in taxes and fees. Instead, you flew from Sydney to Brisbane for $22 and from there took the train to Cairns for $389?

In other words, you traded a three-dollar business class flight to spend 24-hours on a train? For $389?”

My young friend shook her head in disbelief at the absurdity of my travel choices.

The points thing

Miles and points are my thing. Well, one of my things. When travelling in Australia, I use British Airways Avios points to fly on Qantas, one of British Airways’ oneworld airline partners. Other points programs fund other travels. In fact, I used Scotiabank’s Scotia Rewards to cover the cost of the Spirit of Queensland fare from Brisbane to Cairns.

But, there’s also the train thing. For anyone who loves train travel, Queensland Rail’s Spirit of Queensland is a fabulous choice. The RailBed class is a top-notch travel experience at an affordable price.

Spirit of Queensland

The Spirit of Queensland service operates from Brisbane to Cairns, a distance of 1,681 kilometres (1,045 miles). A small train compared to that of other epic rail journeys such as The Ghan, it has two locomotives and just seven carriages.

There’s a locomotive at each end. The one in front pulls while the one at the rear pushes. They drive the train and supply power to the carriages.

The seven carriages in between include two RailBed sleeper cars with airline style seats that convert to lie-flat beds.

The three premium economy cars have adjustable leather lounger seats in a 2 – 2 configuration. Each one can recline to thirty degrees.

There’s also a Galley / Club Car, and a carriage for luggage and crew.

The train attains a top speed of 160 kph, usually achieved during the night. However, the average speed is more like 80 kph. The journey takes roughly 25 hours.

There are stops for passengers to board and disembark. On the south-to-north service, the stop in Tully was long enough for passengers to stretch their legs on the platform.

RailBed class

What attracted me to the Spirit of Queensland was the RailBed class.

It was more expensive than flying but an attractive option, all things considered. One of the advantages of train travel is that travelling between city centres is usually more convenient and less costly than getting to and from airports. Besides, when compared to air travel, it’s a more sustainable method of transportation.

Another is that it’s an opportunity to take in the scenery. On the Brisbane to Cairns route, the views were interesting and varied. After leaving the urban sprawl of Brisbane, we passed by pineapple farms, rainforests, and the Glasshouse Mountains.

Further north were cattle stations, wetlands, sugar cane fields, and mango and banana plantations. The route was dotted with coastal towns, each with its own character. I even spotted the odd kangaroo and wallaby, and lots of cockatoos.

The service included a welcome drink of ginger beer, lime, mint, and ice.

The three meals were delivered on a trolley to each seat. Two of them, dinner and lunch, included a complimentary soft drink, juice, water, beer, or wine. Tea and coffee were also provided. Orders were taken in advance of the meal. The food was better than what I’ve encountered in economy-class cabins on international airlines. For the three-course evening meal, the appetizer was a Caprese salad of Mozzarella pearls, tomatoes, and sweet basil seasoned with salt and olive oil. For the main, I chose oven-roasted pork loin accompanied by an apple infused jus, chat potatoes, carrots, and beans. For dessert, I had the tiramisu cake. The Sirromet Vineyard Selection Shiraz came from Queensland’s Granite Belt.

I considered the cost of overnight accommodation when evaluating the fare. The bed and bedding were very comfortable. Sleeping to the rocking and rolling of the train and soothing sounds of rail travel added to the enjoyment.

The bathroom was spacious and worth the experience of showering to the rocking on the rails. One hand on the grab bars at all times added to the challenge. The water was hot and the pressure was perfect. The bathroom was kept impeccably clean throughout the trip.

In March 2019, my ticket cost AUD 389.25 / USD 268.54 / CAD 371.38, covered by 37,138 Scotia Rewards.

RailBed class seating

By day, the RailBeds are spacious seats capable of reclining up to 35 degrees.

At night, they’re a comfortable bed with a thick mattress and beautiful bedding consisting of a sheet, two pillows, and a duvet.

Staff made them up, and returned the beds to seats, on demand.

I was a little wary of the 2-1 configuration and sharing sleeping space with 18 other passengers. It worked just fine. The pod-like RailBeds provided a considerable amount of privacy, similar to business class pods on an aircraft.

The main lights were turned off at 21:30, but each pod had individual reading lights. Most people seemed to have pyjamas for sleeping. With the beds made up, the lights dimmed, and the curtains closed, it felt like one large upmarket moving hostel dorm.   

Each seat had a standard power point, USB port, and earphone socket. There was a decent-sized 18.5-inch screen on the back of the seat in front. Movies, music, and audiobooks were on demand. However, with daylight, it was more interesting to enjoy the constantly changing coastal Queensland landscape.

There was an extra seat that folded down under the TV. The fold-down seat had a pocket for reading material and assorted items.

Each passenger received an amenities kit of Queensland organic products. The drawstring bag included shampoo, conditioner, face mist, lip balm, body lotion, face cloth, eye mask, earplugs, and headphones.

The overhead compartment contained a towel, blanket, and inflatable neck cushion. Passengers were invited to take the blanket and cushion with them at the end of the journey. The overhead bin was large enough for my carry-on travel bag.

The ride was quiet and smooth, and conversation was possible at a normal volume. After folks settled in, a more social atmosphere prevailed, especially while watching staff make up the beds.

For a change of scenery, the Club Car offered an opportunity to mingle with other passengers over conversation and drinks. Premium economy-class passengers buy their meals from the Galley and some choose to eat in the Club Car so it can become congested at meal times. At busy times, it was possible to buy a drink and take it back to the comfort of your seat.

A few tips

• Book as early as possible to take advantage of saver fares and seat selection.
• If you’re travelling solo, reserve a seat in the single bed aisle at the time of booking. I suspect Queensland Rail assigns single bookings in this way but I wouldn’t count on it. Also, I’d steer clear of selecting seats near doors that open and close frequently.
• For your listening pleasure, you might want to pack your own headphones. The ones in the amenities kit are cheap and flimsy. It’s also a good idea to pack your own entertainment. Your entertainment system might not work or the content could be uninspiring. A few downloaded Netflix movies and Spotify playlists, or favourite podcasts or books might come in handy. 
• Pack shower shoes (e.g., thongs/flip flops), and comfortable sleepwear. Shoes with a decent tread will keep you upright when moving throughout the train. A light sweater or pashmina will help combat fluctuations in air temperature.   

Exploring Cairns and environs

Cairns is an excellent base and launching point for exploring Far North Queensland. Ride the historic railway to the hinterland or take a tour out to the Great Barrier Reef. Stroll along the Cairns Esplanade or visit the unique Daintree Rainforest. This three-day itinerary describe these suggestions and a host of other ideas.

The final verdict

What was missing from the RailBed experience? Not much. I would have appreciated Wi-Fi to look up stuff on the fly such as “How did the Glasshouse Mountains get their name?” or “When is sugar cane harvested?” Also, a lounge would have been a more attractive spot to relax than the Galley / Club Car. Apparently, a lounge was part of the original design but with rising costs, the project needed to be scaled back and the lounge was scrapped.

Did it represent good value? Yes, especially when factoring in the costs of overnight accommodation, three meals, and long-distance ground transportation. There are also savings from the cost of getting to and from airports, and baggage and seat selection fees associated with air travel.

It was a welcome break from the frenetic pace of busy airports, enhanced security-screening measures, and cramped aircraft space.

The Spirit of Queensland’s RailBed experience was one of the most relaxing journeys I’ve ever had. If you enjoy train travel, it might be for you. I highly recommend it.

 

If your travel plans involve Australia, you might be interested in these other posts:

• A perfect day trip from Cairns to Kuranda by historic train and rainforest cable car
• Sydney at its best: A self-guided tour of The Rocks, the magnificent Sydney Harbour Bridge, Sydney Opera House and points in between
• Cycling around Uluru: the best way to experience Australia’s most recognizable natural landmark
• For a perfect day in Outback Australia, visit Alice Springs Desert Park
• Buying a SIM card in Australia

 

Care to pin it for later?