A brief trip to Taipei’s mountainous suburb of Beitou revealed qualities I was growing to appreciate about Taiwan. These included scenic wonders, preservation of national gifts, inexpensive or non-existent admission prices, volunteerism, and a people-friendly transportation system.

During the morning spent at Beitou, I experienced them all. Visiting Beitou Hot Springs was the focal point, but there’s so much more to enjoy in this little slice of urban heaven. However, after cycling Taroko Gorge and hiking Taroko’s Old Jhuilu Trail, my body was crying out for the soothing waters of the hot springs. That became my first stop on an early Sunday morning in March when connecting with two friends at Beitou.

Getting there

Beitou is a short 30-minute trip on the MRT (Mass Rapid Transit) from the centre of Taipei. Take the red line to Beitou in the direction of Tamsui, then the one-stop pink branch line to Xinbeitou. The brightly decorated car on the branch line primed my expectations of what was to come. Inside were informative wall screens and interactive screens on tables in the shape of wooden hot tub baths.

After exiting the Xinbeitou MRT station, you’ll see a long narrow green space across the street. This is Qinshui Park. Walk up Zhongshan Road, along the left side of the park. On the way, you’ll pass the Ketagalan Culture Centre and the Beitou Hot Spring Museum. Just after the museum is the entrance to the outdoor hot springs.

Beitou Hot Springs

In Beitou, there are plenty of luxurious spas and resorts, from nude baths segregated by gender to facilities in costly private rooms in upscale hotels. For a culturally ‘immersive’ experience with a local flavour, the public hot springs is a great choice for the budget-minded traveller. At NT60 (USD 1.90), it’s a cheap but rich experience (and it costs less for seniors, children, students, and military personnel).

Opened in 1999 on the eve of the new millennium, it’s also known as the Millennium Hot Spring.

There are three hot pools and two cold pools. The idea is to start at the coolest hot pool at the bottom and work your way up. Temperatures in the hot pools on the day of my visit ranged from 42 to 46 degrees Celsius. The water was relatively clear, and the slightly pungent smell of minerals wasn’t unpleasant. The presence of sulphur wasn’t overpowering, with no hint of the rotten-egg smell prevalent at some hot springs.

Taking photographs is against the rules, but we were so anxious to hit the pool that the board posting the list of do’s and don’ts escaped our attention. Locals pointed out our transgression, but only after we’d snapped a few pictures.

What to bring

Bring your swimsuit and a towel. You can change and shower in a private stall. You’ll need a $NT20 coin, or two $NT10 coins for stowing your stuff in a locker. Pack bottled water to stay hydrated. If you have long hair, it needs to be up and out of the hot spring. Don’t forget a dry bag for your wet swimsuit and towel for the trip home.

Plan the timing of your visit

The public hot springs operate on a schedule consisting of roughly two-hour segments, with a half hour between each one when the springs close for cleaning. When each session is up, everyone must vacate the premises. At the time of our visit, the schedule was from 05:30 to 07:30, 08:00 to 10:00, 10:30 to 13:00, 13:30 to 16:00, 16:30 to 19:00 and 19:30 to 22:00.

There’s more…

There’s so much more to enjoy in Beitou. Our list included the Beitou Hot Spring Museum, Thermal Valley…

…Qinshui Park

…and the Ketagalan Culture Centre.

Admission was free at all four locations, and the volunteers at the museum and the culture centre were friendly and informative. All attractions are well posted and within walking distance of each other and the station.

Afterwards, we headed back to the MRT with fond memories of the succulent selection of street food awaiting us in Tamsui.

For more information on Beitou, this detailed and comprehensive guide is a very helpful resource.

Might you be interested in my other posts on Taiwan?

• 10 Appealing reasons to visit Taiwan
• Cycling Taroko Gorge in Taiwan: an exhilarating downhill ride
• Zhuilu Old Trail Hiking Guide: Taroko National Park, Taiwan
• Yehliu Geopark – bizarre rocks and succulent seafood
• Discover Taiwan’s culinary treasures with a Taipei walking food tour
• Follow the locals to the best Taiwanese street food
• For affordable accommodation, look no further than the Space Inn, Taipei

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