Updated January 15, 2024

The Zhuilu Old Trail is steeped in natural beauty and historical significance. The hike’s highlight is reaching the narrow path cut into the edge of the vertical, marble cliff face, offering spectacular views of the valley below. This detailed Zhuilu Old Trail hiking guide will help you prepare for the best hike in the Taroko National Park.  

Where is the Zhuilu Old Trail?

In the heart of Taiwan’s magnificent Taroko National Park, the Old Zhuilu Trail was once part of the Hehuan Cross-Island Trail that stretched from the east coast over the HeHuan Mountains to the village of Wushe in the west. A small eastern section remains and is open to hikers. Starting at the Zhuilu Suspension Bridge at Swallow Grotto, the 3.1-km trail stretches to the Cliff Outpost, the turnaround point to return to the entrance at Swallow Grotto.

History of the Zhuilu Old Road

The Cross-Hehuan Mountain Old Road connected Truku villages in the early days. Initially, the trail was only 30 cm / 12 in wide, barely wide enough for one person to walk safely. After losing the Truku War in 1914, local indigenous men were conscripted by the Japanese colonial government to expand the trail’s width to 1.5 metres /5 feet. This meant the road could be used for transportation and movement of weapons to ensure greater control over the mountain tribes. Construction was difficult and dangerous. The remains of old outposts can still be seen along the trail.

Zhuilu Old Trail Hiking Guide

A permit is required

For environmental reasons, the number of hikers is limited to 96 on weekdays and 156 on weekends and holidays. For safety purposes, the permit system tracks who enters and leaves the trail.

The application window is 35 days to 4 months before the date of intended entry (the date of intended entry is restricted to between Monday and Thursday). See the Government of Taiwan site for more information.

My identification was checked at the roadside tent before entry was permitted. On my return, my name was checked off the list.

The uphill hike

From Swallow Grotto at an elevation of 274 metres, the Old Zhuilu Trail climbs to the Zhuilu Cliff at 1,100 metres. It’s a trail distance of about 2.5 kilometres. With another 500 metres of trail carved into the Zhuilu Cliff to the rest area at the 3.1-kilometre marker, it promised to be a challenging hike.

Crossing the Zhuilu Suspension Bridge across the Liwu River was the easiest part of the 6.2-kilometre hike.

Signs issued warnings to hikers who had not done the necessary research. The first one stated, “This trail has a high level of difficulty. Please check your equipment and assess your physical capability before entering. Do not enter unless you are fully prepared.”

The next sign reinforced earlier warnings. I was getting the picture it would be no walk in the park.

In many sections, the trail consisted of a wall of steps that seemed to go on forever. Each step was notched with grooves to improve traction and reduce the possibility of slipping. I would want to avoid hiking this trail in wet and slippery conditions.

At other times, navigating the trail required clamouring over boulders on hands and feet.

The presence of venomous snakes and wasps is another reason to pack or rent hiking poles!!

At the .7-kilometre marker, a group of hikers from Taipei told me they were quitting and returning to the trailhead. The prospect of another 2.5 kilometres must have been too daunting to contemplate. By this point, I could relate.

I pressed on, blending the need for frequent stops with opportunities to absorb the beauty of the surroundings and admire the interesting variety of plants.

Now and again, the views of the gorge promised more spectacular vistas to come.

While steps and switchbacks dominated the forest trail, each new curve brought plenty of variety to make the hike enjoyable.

Zhuilu Cliff

Unfortunately, a fog bank had rolled in by the time I reached the Zhuilu Cliff at 1,100 metres. I missed the spectacular views of the river below by about 30 minutes.

Nevertheless, hiking the narrow 500-metre-long trail cut into the cliff face was an exciting highlight.

On the blessing and curse scale, the fog made the experience less scary. I wasn’t constantly peering over the edge to admire the vertigo-inducing view below. At one point, I rounded a curve to find hiking guide William Ho standing precariously on the edge of the precipice. He suggested I walk to the next bend, where he snapped a selfie with me in the background.

Still, the fog didn’t obscure the sharp drop of the precipice on which I was standing. A sturdy rope attached to the cliff face added a high degree of security to the experience.

The trail is no more than 60 centimetres at its narrowest and most exposed points. My hand was never far from the plastic-coated cable bolted into the cliff face.

The downhill hike

The hike downhill was just as challenging as the climb up to the Zhuilu Cliff. I took things slowly, averaging only about .5 km every 35 minutes. I encountered a troop of Formosan macaques (rock monkeys) feeding in the trees. I stopped frequently to admire the interesting variety of flora. While I was hiking alone, it was comforting to know there were four people behind me at different intervals. Of the maximum number of 96 persons permitted on the trail, my best guess is perhaps 25 people were hiking that day.

At the .5-kilometre marker, there were just another 30 minutes or so to go.

I made it to Swallow Grotto with a great sense of satisfaction and accomplishment. When the couple behind me (pictured on the suspension bridge in the background) reached the trailhead, the only common language we had and needed consisted of high fives, bows,  and smiles of congratulations.

Logistics

Entry is allowed between 07:00 and 10:00. In the afternoon, wind and fog are common, so start as early as possible. 

For a convenient, efficient, and stress-free approach to hiking the Old Zhuilu Trail, I chose to stay at Taroko Lodge on the outskirts of Taroko National Park. The owner, Rihang Su, organized a park permit after I emailed him the requested information (name, birth date, passport number and a scanned copy of the information page of my passport). Rihang organized drop-off and pickup services to and from the trailhead for a nominal charge.

If time permits, stay at least three nights to allow for a minimum of two whole days to explore the park. On one of the days, take advantage of Rihang’s bike-and-hike services. Freewheel twenty kilometres or so down to the park entrance, stopping along the way to explore some of the wonders of Taroko Gorge. Check out Cycling Taiwan’s Taroko Gorge: an exhilarating downhill ride for a description of the experience.

Hiring a guide is unnecessary to hire a guide, but the experience would be enriched by having one. The hiker I met on the trail with William Ho highly recommended William. When introduced, I immediately recognized his name because of the excellent reviews of William at TripAdvisor.

What to pack

• You’ll need your passport to verify your identity at the permit tent. The laminated copy of the information page of my passport was acceptable.
• Pack a rain jacket, snacks, and at least a litre of water.
• There are no garbage cans so be prepared to carry out any trash.
• I carried insect repellent, although it wasn’t needed in March.
• Wear long pants in a light fabric (it’s very humid) and hiking boots or shoes with good tread.
• I also suggest carrying a small first aid kit to treat possible stings, sprains, or cuts and scrapes.
• Hiking poles will contribute to a safer and more comfortable hiking experience.
• An unlocked phone with a Taiwan mobile plan is helpful in an emergency.

The verdict?

How challenging was hiking the Old Zhuilu Trail? Climbing through the forest required frequent stops to catch my breath. Coming down called for breaks to give my knees and thighs a rest. There were many times I lamented my inactive Canadian winter and a week of overindulging on Taiwanese street food. Would I do it again? Definitely. Would I recommend it to others? Yes, but only on a clear day, starting as early as possible, with a strong likelihood of catching those spectacular cliff-top views for which Zhuilu is famous.

Might you be interested in my other posts on Taiwan?

• 10 Irresistible reasons to visit Taiwan
• Cycling Taroko Gorge in Taiwan: an exhilarating downhill ride
• Yehliu taiwan guide to bizarre rocks and succulent seafood
• 18 Mouth-watering examples of the best Taiwanese street food
• Guide to visiting Beitou Hot Springs in Taipei
• Discover Taiwan’s culinary treasures with a Taipei walking food tour

 

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