Heralded as ‘The World’s Most Beautiful Voyage’ by Lonely Planet, a Hurtigruten Norway Coastal Express voyage is not a cruise. Or it’s not a typical cruise. It’s an educational and culinary experience on a working ship that stops at many coastal communities while introducing passengers to some of the finest scenery on the planet. If you’re contemplating a coastal voyage and seeking more information, this Hurtigruten Norway Coastal Express review and guide will hopefully answer many of your questions.

 

Hurtigruten Norway Coastal Express review and guide

What distinguishes a Hurtigruten Norway Coastal Express voyage from a typical cruise? For context, my points of comparison are two Princess Cruises, one to Alaska in 2006 and another through the Panama Canal from Fort Lauderdale to Vancouver in 2010. After experiencing a bike-and-boat cruise along the Danube in 2013 and a bike-and-barge tour in the Netherlands in 2014, I realized my preference lay in more intimate experiences on smaller vessels. When I stumbled across the Hurtigruten Norway Coastal Express, it earned a place on my travel list.  

In 2024, my 12-day ‘BKB’ (Bergen-Kirkenes-Bergen) voyage on MS Richard With sailed from Bergen on September 28.

 

15 Attractive features of the Hurtigruten Norway Coastal Express

1. Rich history

Hurtigruten vessels have faithfully served coastal cities, towns, and villages since 1893. The coastal service was once a critical communication link between the north and south of Norway, transporting mail, cargo, and passengers. Hurtigruten vessels on the Coastal Express have retained the features of a working ship by providing ferry and cargo services between ports.

2. Daily departures

Since 1936, except during World War II, a Hurtigruten vessel has left Bergen daily, heading north. There are plenty of choices of vessels, seasons, and sailing dates.

Except for slight seasonal variations or unscheduled changes due to weather conditions, the route remains the same for all vessels and dates.

3. Green, hybrid vessels

Built in 1993, in 2022, MS Richard With was upgraded to a green hybrid ship. Large battery packs and brand-new low-emission engines cut emissions. It was also updated with new waste-water treatment equipment and technology that reduces Nitrogen Oxide emissions by at least 80 per cent.

On the southward journey, cooperative weather permitted entering Trollfjord, just two kilometres long and only 100 metres wide. At the end of the fjord, passengers were treated to how noiselessly and efficiently the ship turned around to retrace its course.

trollfjord-norway

4. Route

The 12-day BKB coastal voyage travels from Bergen to Kirkenes near the border with Russia, calling at 34 ports twice, northbound and southbound. Most ports visited during the night northbound are visited by day on the southbound route. Passengers cross the Arctic Circle twice, have twice the opportunities to see the northern lights in autumn and winter, and travel 2,500 nautical miles (twice).

Hurtigruten operates 15 ships on the Coastal Express, so vessels are bound to pass each other. When Richard With entered Trondheim and passed the Kong Harald to blasts of the ships’ horns, passengers on both boats waved Norwegian flags.

passing-hurtigruten-ships-norway

5. Choose length of voyage

Passengers choose the length of their voyage. Many opt for either the northbound or southbound route, beginning or ending in Bergen or Kirkenes. Others tailor their voyage to travel shorter distances between ports.

Passengers on any voyage exceeding 24 hours are required to book a cabin.

6. Experience the beauty of a Norwegian fjord

Weather permitting, each vessel leaves the coast for passengers to experience the stunning beauty of one of Norway’s world-famous fjords. From June to August, the summer schedule includes sailings into the Geirangerfjord on northbound journeys. In September and October (and from 2025, in April and May), it’s the Hjørundfjord on the northbound route.

In addition, ships enter the tiny fjord of Trollfjord on the southbound route if the weather cooperates.

While in the Hjørundfjord, passengers were transported by tender to the small settlement of Urke to participate in an excursion or a wander through the village. Unlike other ports of call, it was an ideal opportunity to appreciate MS Richard With from the water.

ms-richard-with-urke-norway

7. Number of passengers

Hurtigruten ships are smaller than regular cruise liners, resulting in more intimate interaction between passengers and crew. While a vessel such as MS Richard With may have a listed capacity of 199 cabins and 590 passengers, many cabins have a third bed folded into the wall, an upper bunk that I doubt is rarely occupied.

On September 28, 2024, the 590-capacity MS Richard With left Bergen with 287 passengers. In Kirkenes, 67 left the ship. However, 24 passengers boarded, making a complement of 199 for the southward journey (plus or minus those who embarked or disembarked at various ports).

8. Passengers from various countries

Daily briefings were conducted in English and German. Announcements were in Norwegian, English, German, and occasionally French. Based on my interaction with many other passengers, most came from Germany. There were several Scandinavians, some Swiss, a dozen or so from France, many from the USA, and quite a few Brits. I heard many Australian accents but met only two other Canadians (one of whom was a transplanted Australian).

9. The entertainment is the scenery

Unlike the cruise ships carrying thousands of passengers with entertainment such as Broadway-style musicals, live music, water slides, and casinos, the entertainment on Hurtigruten’s Coastal-Express vessels revolves around the breathtaking beauty of nature’s most spectacular gallery of fjords, coastline, mountains, and ports of call.

10. Dress on board is casual

There’s no dress code on the Coastal Express. Most people opt for casual and functional clothing by day and evening. What matters are layers for transitioning from indoors to outdoors, including a waterproof and windproof outer layer and shoes with a decent tread while on deck or in port. Like many others, I washed lighter pieces by hand to rotate the same few pieces of clothing.

11. A remarkable educational experience

The onboard expedition team conducts engaging daily briefings on ports of call, excursions, weather reports, and presentations on Norwegian wildlife, language, music, history, and culture. They’re interesting and not to be missed. Topics included the Sámi, the indigenous people of Norway (and Sweden, Finland, and Russia), the internal workings of the ship, whales, trolls, Vikings, and the royal family. The small segments on language were always entertaining, especially as many of us grappled with pronunciation. During one session, we learned that Norwegian has three additional vowels (æ, ø, å), and a word (blueberry jam) contains all three!

daily-briefing-rhurtigruten-richard-with

Other presentations and lectures were on topics such as photography or northern lights. Some were conducted on a sizeable open space on Deck 7 when passing geographical or historical points of interest. I saw an interesting film on the Pomor trade between the Pomors of Northwest Russia and the people along the coast of northern Norway until the Bolshevik Revolution in 1917. 

There were other events and activities, including a photography competition, a shanty singalong, ceremonies marking the crossing of the Arctic Circle, and food tastings of Norwegian specialties.

fenalar-norwayFenalår: salted and dried leg of lamb or sheep

Some sailings include an ‘Astronomy Voyage.’ From what I observed and from conversations with participating passengers, an astronomy package includes a designated group organizer, lectures, guidance, and tips from an astronomer, access to the Northern Lights Planetarium in Tromsø, and optional guided walks in some ports.    

12. A professional crew

Every crew member was friendly, courteous, and helpful, willing to make each person’s voyage as perfect as possible. Down to a person, each projected a strong work and service culture.

There were 70 crew on board who work shifts of 22 days followed by 22 days off. Cabins, a crew kitchen, dining room, gym, and staff lounge are on Decks 1 and 2. Everyone I chatted with had several years of service with Hurtigruten and spoke positively of their employment.

When I asked how their wages and benefits compared with those of, say, teachers and nurses, one worker remarked that he has no expenses during his 22-day shift, so having room and board included as part of the benefits package contributes to a wage that compares most favourably with that of many other occupations. In addition, a Seafarers Allowance is a taxation benefit that reduces the tax rate to around 20% for workers who spend a minimum of 130 days at sea.

Most of the crew were Norwegian, and we chatted with a few Swedes. The Norwegians came from various regions, starting or ending their shifts as the ship docked in the closest port to home.

Anja works in the Multe Bakery and Café and has 16 years of service. Her 22-day shift ended when the ship docked in her hometown of Tromsø on the southbound route.

crew-member-richard-with-hurtigruten

13. Food

Hurtigruten’s Norway’s Coastal Kitchen is one of the highlights of the Coastal Express. It won Gold for Travel Weekly’s 2024 Magellan Awards’ Best Overall Cruise Cuisine.

Passengers are encouraged to inform Hurtigruten of allergies and other dietary needs when booking. The main restaurant, Torget, offered buffet-style dining for breakfast and lunch and three-course meals with several seatings for dinner on most evenings. Meals were a highlight. As a ‘seafoodie,’ I loved the rich variety harvested from Norwegian waters. The evening menu offered meat, seafood, and vegetarian options. I dined exclusively at Torget, which was included in my fare and more than satisfied my expectations and needs.

cod-hurtigruten-voyageAtlantic cod from Dragoy (with potato cream, sugar kelp, beurre noisette, pickled beets, and smoked bacon)

Hurtigruten prides itself on sourcing local ingredients, with 80% of all food and 60% of 154 drink products sourced from 50 farms, bakeries, and producers along the Norwegian coast. In February 2024, Hurtigruten launched its commitment towards zero edible food waste and converting it into compost.

lunch-buffet-hurtigruten-coastal-expressL‍unch buffet: smoked duck, fried kale, mixed greens, feta cheese, sun-dried tomatoes, vinagrette

14. The northern lights

Between October and March, passengers are treated to vibrant displays of northern lights. In fact, until March 31, 2027, if the northern lights don’t appear within sight of the ship on a voyage of 11 days or more between September 20 and March 31, Hurtigruten promises a free northbound or southbound voyage.

At each daily briefing session, the crew shared the predictability of seeing the northern lights. Once we crossed the Arctic Circle on the northbound route, the aurora borealis graced us with a celestial dance of green swirls and lines across the sky, repeating the performance several times before returning to Bergen.

More colours were added to its stunning palette before leaving the Arctic. Our resident Chief Aurora Chaser, Tom Kerss, captured a spectacular display of the Milky Way between two aurora curtains with MS Richard With’s funnels and 8th deck rail in the foreground.

northern-lights-norway-photo-by-tom-kerssPhoto credit: Tom Kerss, Chief Aurora Chaser 

15. Active or relaxed, the choice is yours

When connected to the ship’s Wi-Fi, the Hurtigruten app lists all the activities scheduled for that day. Except for the occasions I was journalling, creating notes for this blog post, or editing photos, my days were busy attending lectures, briefing sessions, or special events. Or spending time outside to soak up the scenery or activity at short stops at ports of call.

The temperature indoors was warm enough for short sleeves. It felt around 22 degrees Celsius. Outdoors was another story. Each morning, I’d pack a small backpack stuffed with layers and warm headgear and keep it with me at all times, ready to layer up and venture outdoors at a moment’s notice. Alternating between indoors and outdoors dominated most days and when dressed appropriately, spending time on deck was a highlight.

My advice is to include layers with hoods on your packing list. Each of my three-hooded layers zipped to cover my chin and create a snug fit around the face. A woollen hat (and a merino Buff to cover the nose if necessary) provided additional protection. The three layers with hoods were a long-sleeved Icebreaker Quantum Zip Hoodie, an Arc’teryx Thorium A Hoody, and a waterproof, windproof Black Diamond Stormline Stretch Rain Shell. 

three-layers-with-hoods

I observed many passengers curled up with a book, knitting, napping, playing cards, or working on a jigsaw puzzle. I assumed some of them were Norwegians who experience spectacular scenery daily and don’t see a need to rush out on deck to see more of the same. Also, many people return for repeat Hurtigruten voyages, some on an annual basis, and likely treat the voyage as an ideal opportunity to relax.

 

When is the best time for a Hurtigruten Coastal Express voyage?

What seasonal features are most important to you?

From mid-May to early August, the Norwegian coast above the Arctic Circle experiences the Midnight Sun with 24 hours of daylight when the sun doesn’t set. Instead, it hovers above the horizon, even at midnight. Between October and March, the route above the Arctic Circle passes directly under the auroral zone, an area of consistent northern lights activity.

I live in Canada (and spent eight years teaching in isolated, indigenous northern communities), so snow-covered landscapes, freezing temperatures, snowmobiling, and dog sledding aren’t new experiences. Besides, winter voyages are more likely to experience stormy weather and high seas, resulting in a stronger likelihood of disruptions to the itinerary. So a winter voyage wasn’t on my radar.

As it turned out, my voyage from September 28 to October 9, 2024, was an excellent choice of dates (for me). The weather was atypically calm and pleasant, and we experienced typical autumnal coastal weather (overcast and rainy) on the last day only. And being autumn, we were rewarded with northern lights activity. 

At any time of year, rest assured that Hurtigruten is prepared for sudden changes to the itinerary due to fluctuations in weather. The expedition team springs into action to organize additional lectures and extra excursions while in port for an extended period. Transportation by car or bus (and accommodation and meals where necessary) is organized at Hurtigruten’s expense for passengers scheduled to embark or disembark at ports skipped because of the weather. In addition, Hurtigruten issues partial refunds for voyages cut short because of the weather.

 

Boarding in Bergen

My friend and I spent several nights in Bergen at the Heimen Hotel before our voyage. The hotel stored our luggage until it was time to head to the Hurtigruten Terminal. It was close enough to walk, about 20 minutes via an underground parking garage.

Another option is to store luggage in lockers at the terminal. Or, head to the terminal when the luggage drop-off service opens (13:00 to 14:30). The second-floor lounge opens at 13:00 with coffee, tea, and pastries available. Watch the ship arrival and disembarkation process (14:45). Passenger check-in is from 15:30 to 20:00, when each passenger links a payment method to their cabin key and receives an information package. The queue was a bit of a wait, but I happily chatted with other passengers. Safety briefings occur in a room off the lounge before boarding, between 15:45 and 19:30.

The earliest boarding time is 16:00, and cabins are ready by 18:00, with luggage conveniently placed outside the door.

 

The ship, public spaces, and amenities

Most Hurtigruten vessels are similar. For descriptions and deck plans, visit the Hurtigruten site.

MS Richard With was easy to ‘navigate’ with just seven decks. Elevators are at opposite ends of the ship, with adjacent staircases and washrooms on several decks.

Deck 7 boasted a sizable outdoor observation area at the stern where various presentations and events were held. The area overlooked two outdoor hot tubs below on Deck 6.

outdoor-hot-tub-richard-with-hurtigruten

Two partially enclosed areas with outdoor seating were nearby, one designated for smokers. Indoors on Deck 7, comfortable chairs and seating areas are surrounded by floor-to-ceiling windows for admiring passing land and seascapes. An activity centre is stocked with books, board games, and puzzles. Also on Deck 7 is the Multe Bakery for pastries, specialty coffees, and ice cream, and the Explorer Bar for drinks and cocktails. A small fitness room offers unobstructed views while exercising.

An open-air walking deck is on Deck 5, partially covered in some sections, including a small outdoor observation area at the bow.

Deck 4 is a busy hub with lecture halls, a shop, and an administration centre for enquiries and bookings. The main dining room, Torget and Kysten (for fine dining), is also on Deck 4, along with the daytime bistro, Brygga, that serves hot snacks and sandwiches.

Besides cabins, Deck 3 has an assembly area for passengers to embark and disembark at most ports. A baggage room is nearby. The laundry room on Deck 3 is stocked with four washers and four dryers. The cost per load is 30 NOK, with tokens purchased from the service desk and the cost charged to your account. Detergent is automatically dispensed during the cycle. The use of a dryer is free.

The car deck, tender area, and sauna are on Deck 2. On one occasion only, passengers boarding the tender to the village of Urke in the Hjørundfjord did so from the tender area.

Complimentary Wi-Fi on the ship was fast and reliable.

 

Cabins and cabin amenities

Suites and cabins vary in price, size, and amenities. Lifeboats partially obstruct some views, or some cabins are beside the outdoor walking deck. At least one wheelchair-accessible cabin is on every ship. See the deck plans posted onsite for more information.

There may be the option for last-minute upgrades at discounted rates close to travel dates or after boarding. A few months before departure, I received a telephone call inviting me to upgrade at a reduced rate.

Our starboard-side Polar Outside cabin on Deck 3 (Cabin 320) boasted a large rectangular window. As the ship docks on the port side at each port, it was quieter on the starboard side, away from the gangway and ramps for passengers, cars, and cargo. Also, with ocean swells, there was much less rocking in our mid-ship cabin on Deck 3 compared with Deck 7.

The photos on the Hurtigruten site were an accurate depiction of our cabin. It was small but adequate for two people. We spent time in the cabin to sleep and shower, and the window was handy to check ports of call during the night or the weather first thing in the morning.

The bathroom was small but met our needs. Water on board is safe to drink, and water bottles can be filled from the bathroom sink. Two dispensers in the shower contained hair-and-body wash and hair conditioner, and another dispenser was above the washbasin. A retractable clothesline extended across the shower stall by the shower curtain. The body-and-hair wash worked well as a detergent for hand washing a few small items.

There was a small closet, cupboards, wall hooks, bathroom door hooks, and several shelves for storage, charging devices, and storing the supplied hair dryer. Some passengers pack magnetic hooks that work better when attached to the ceiling, holding coats better than on the wall where the hooks tend to slide downwards.

Onboard sockets are designed for 220v/50Hz AC power and are of the two-pin European type. There were enough outlets to meet our needs for charging several devices and plugging in the hair dryer.

Luggage can be stored under the bed.

 

Meals

Oh, my, the meals were incredible! The food was fresh, delicious, and plentiful.

The choices at the breakfast and lunch buffets were immense. Hot and cold plates, gluten-free options, a different soup each day, a selection of fresh breads, sliced meats, pâté, delicious salads, fresh fruit, a variety of cheeses, smoked and cured salmon, decadent desserts… an endless selection.

The evening meals offered at least three choices of starters, mains, and desserts. Each was described in detail on the menu, and all were ‘tastefully’ presented.

lamb-hurtigruten-coastal-expressSlow-cooked leg of lamb with horseradish sauce, baked celery, and celery cream

 

Drinks and drink packages

Suites are supplied with a kettle and a selection of tea and coffee. Bringing (and using) appliances containing heating elements such as immersion heaters or water heaters aren’t permitted, so borrowing a kettle from the service desk might be an option.

Coffee and tea are included at meal times. Coffee and tea packages are available, and specialty coffees can be purchased at the Multe Café and Bakery.

Alcoholic beverages are expensive. Various packages with information and prices are described in the pre-boarding information package. Buying by the bottle is cheaper than buying by the glass, and a crew member will cork it for consumption the following evening.

I found conflicting information with respect to bringing alcohol on board. Some sources indicated it wasn’t permitted; others suggested it was allowed for consumption within my cabin. On a free (tip-based) walking tour in Bergen, our guide pointed out Vinmonopolet as the best place to purchase alcohol at affordable prices. This resulted in purchasing a carton of wine to enjoy a pre-dinner evening drink.

 

Prearranged seating at dinner

Table numbers and seating times for dinner are recorded in the embarkation documentation in the lower right-hand corner of the envelope. Typically, buffets are scheduled for the first two evenings, so if you’d prefer an earlier or later seating, speak to the dining manager.

I observed that seating assignments are not the result of a random process. My travelling companion and I were seated with the only other two Canadians on board. At the next table, a couple from Scotland were seated with a couple from London. While I didn’t ask to have my assumption verified, Hurtigruten appears to seat people who share a common language. In the Hurtigruten Facebook groups, I’ve read that solo travellers are also seated together.

 

Excursions

Online, Hurtigruten advertises a rich variety of interesting excursions. While on board, the expedition team does a superb job of describing the excursions in more detail at briefing sessions. Don’t be surprised to feel tempted to add more to your list.

Excursions are expensive, so you’ll likely want to be selective. 

While there’s a danger that popular excursions may sell out, my approach was to wait until the voyage to book those excursions that appealed to me. One key factor influencing my decision was the weather, and the other was health-related. As it turned out, I was keen to book two excursions on the southbound route; however, a combination of weather and a debilitating cold conspired against it.

Popular excursions with a chance of selling out are the Snowmobile Trip in the Arctic, the Husky Tour, and The North Cape. In those cases, consider booking in advance. If you’re considering a specific tour (or can’t decide on one tour over another when both are offered simultaneously), you’re bound to find someone in one of the Facebook groups who has experienced the tour and can provide more information to help you decide. 

In Kirkenes, I booked an excursion to the Kirkenes Snowhotel. It involved a visit to the husky yard and reindeer pen, an ice-cold crowberry shot in the ice bar, a wander through the snow hotel, and a stop at Prestfjellet Mountain for magnificent panoramic views of the town. Commentary on the bus to and from the Snowhotel (and seeing a herd of reindeer) was most interesting.

snow hotel-kirkenes-norway

Remember that the company doesn’t wait for late passengers unless they’re on a delayed Hurtigruten excursion. While it may be cheaper to find a cheaper excursion, there’s always the risk of not making it back to the ship on time.

There’s also the self-guided option in places such as Ålesund (2 hours), Trondheim (3 hours), Bodø (2 hours 15), Tromsø (4 hours), Honningsvåg (3 hours 35), Kirkenes (3 hours 30), Hammerfest (1 hour 45), Svolvær (2 hours), Brønnøysund (2 hours 25), and Trondheim (3 hours). The apps Voice Map and WalknTours (with in-app purchases on both) have some excellent tours with ideas on where to explore in the time available.

Consider teaming up with a few others to split the cost of a taxi to cover more ground.

 

Crossing the Arctic Circle is celebrated

Certificates, ceremonies, a special postmark, and a competition to estimate the exact time mark crossing the Arctic Circle.

The invisible line sweeps across Sweden, Finland, Russia, Alaska, Canada, Greenland, and Iceland – a line that also splits Norway in two. On our Hurtigruten voyage, we passed a globe marking the spot on the small islet of Vikingen. The exact location of the Arctic Circle varies. Over the course of a year, the virtual line shifts by almost 15 metres – while Vikingen and its Arctic Circle Monument remain firmly in place.

arctic-circle-monument-norway

On the northbound voyage, Njord, God of the sea and the wind in Norse mythology, joined the ceremony. Willing participants endured a ladle of ice cubes down the back from Njord or the captain. I lucked in when the woman beside me chose the captain, who was definitely more heavy-handed than Njord in wielding his ladle. Everyone who participated was rewarded with a shot of cloudberry wine.

arctic-circle-ceremony-northbound-hurtigruten

The ceremony on the southbound crossing involved swallowing a teaspoon of cod liver oil, and participants kept the special Hurtigruten spoon as a memento.

 

Unloading passengers, vehicles, and freight

Stops at most ports of call are short but long enough for passengers to soak up the scenery and observe the docking process and loading and unloading of freight. It’s fascinating to watch. A cargo door opens from the port side while the vehicle and cargo ramps are lowered to meet the dock. Deck 2 is the car deck. The two ramps are used for vehicles, wheelchair users, and loading and unloading freight.

port-side-gangways-and-ramps-hurtigruten

At longer stops, passengers embark and disembark from Deck 3, tapping their cabin cards to record leaving and returning. At the final destination, cards can be dropped off for recycling.

 

A taste of the ports of call

With a population of 1,700, Ørnes is surrounded by an archipelago of 700 islands and more than 30 mountain peaks as a backdrop. Our stop was brief, about 10 minutes, enough to unload a pallet of freight, a vehicle, and two passengers.

ornes-norway

Our stop in Stockmarknes was just long enough to visit the Coastal Express Museum next to where we docked.

hurtigruten-museum-stokmarkes-norway

At 60.5 degrees north, Brønnøysund is in the geographic centre of Norway. With a population of 1,766, Brønnøysund sits on a narrow peninsula surrounded by thousands of islands.

bronnoysund-dwellings-and-boathouses

Vardø, our first stop at dusk on the southbound route, is Norway’s easternmost town. Its population is 2,100, and fishing and fish processing are its staple industries.

vardo-norway

Trondheim is Norway’s third largest city. A three-hour stop was sufficient to explore downtown and wander alongside waterways and admire the colourful 18th-century wooden warehouses.

warehouses-trondheim-norway

 

A taste of the coastal scenery

Between ports, we were blessed with one stunning view after another: snow-capped mountain peaks, islands, lighthouses, fishing boats, treeless landscapes, isolated cabins, and more.

Kjeungskjær Lighthouse, built in 1880 and automated in 1987, guides traffic in and out of Tromdheimsfjord, where it meets the North Sea. It’s one of Norway’s most distinctive lighthouses with its octagonal-shaped tower painted red.

lighthouse-entering-trondheim-norway

Dwellings, many for seasonal use, dot the coastline and fjords. On many occasions, I wondered how people survive in these remote areas far from stores and services.

remote-settlements-norway

The landscape changes. As we approached the North Cape, it became more barren and austere. Magerøysundet Strait, between Magerøy Island and the mainland, is a busy shipping lane used by trawlers, cargo vessels, and cruise ships travelling to and from Russia and the Barents Sea. This area is above the tree line, which in Norway is approximately 70°N. Here, reindeer forage for lichens, moss, ferns, herbs, flowering plants, and grasses. In the summer months, more than 6,000 reindeer graze on the island. Under Norwegian law, only the indigenous Sámi people may own reindeer.

mageroysundet-strait-norway

While docking in Harstad, a break in the cloud cover treated us to the stunning colours of the rising sun.

sailing-into-harstad

The elements weather rocky islands, and markers guide ships through narrow passages.

light-stations-to-guide-ships-norway

‘Seven Sisters’ is a mountain range of seven peaks, all around 1,000 metres tall, on the island of Alsten. All seven peaks are popular with hikers.

seven-sisters-norway

Just outside Brønnøysund, Torghatten is known as ‘the mountain with a hole through it.’ Carved out by the sea thousands of years ago, the opening is 160 metres long, up to 35 metres high, and 20 metres wide. The trail up and through the opening is well maintained with a brand-new ‘Sherpa Staircase.’

torghatten-norway

 

Conclusion

The Hurtigruten Coastal Express is known as “The World’s Most Beautiful Voyage” for a reason. The scenic beauty of the Norwegian coast, combined with the Hurtigruten philosophy of sourcing local products and introducing passengers to the fresh and flavoursome world of Norwegian cuisine, make the Coastal Express a must-have experience on any travel list. And Hurtigruten’s dedication to educating passengers through the efforts of a knowledgable expedition team and on-board experts makes the Coastal Express a standout among sea voyages.

Are you considering a Coastal Express voyage? If so, here are some additional tips:

  • Join the free 1893 Ambassador Program, Hurtigruten’s loyalty program. It includes a welcome gift and offers 5% discount on excursions booked on board.
  • The Facebook groups Hurtigruten Insiders and Hurtigruten Norway (Norwegian Coastal Express Passengers Group) are valuable sources of helpful information. Members post trip reports and photographs and ask and respond to questions.
  • Sign up for the Hurtigruten newsletter to be advised of offers and updates.
  • When checking in, you’ll receive a credit-card-sized card linked to a payment card to open the cabin and pay for excursions, drinks, or extras purchased on board. Pack a lanyard to attach the card for easy access and prevent loss.
  • Always carry hand sanitizer and use it often. I was shocked to see many people entering the dining room and not using the sanitizer station at the entrance. Everyone uses serving utensils at the buffet so use sanitizer when returning to your table. I developed a cold, and by the end of the voyage, several people tested positive for COVID-19.  
  • Complimentary Wi-Fi on the ship is fast and reliable. For out and about in Oslo, Bergen, and ports of call, I’d purchased a local eSIM from Airalo with coverage for Norway and a 30-day plan with 5GB for CAD18. It proved invaluable for many functions as I find so many travel-related activities are much easier, safer, and more convenient with an internet connection.
  • In the event of rough weather, passengers may be advised to remain in their cabins. In advance, download music, podcasts, or audiobooks to avoid looking at a screen.
  • Pack seasickness prevention and treatment. My supply included Motion Sickness Bands, anti-nauseant medication, and lemon-ginger lozenges.
  • The ship stops at ports during the night. If you’re a light sleeper, pack sleep aids. You might also consider a cabin on the starboard side.
  • Be flexible and expect the itinerary to change, sometimes drastically, especially in winter.
  • If embarking or disembarking in Bergen, spend a few days there. It’s a beautiful city, and it means incorporating a comfortable cushion of time to make connections.
  • I initially booked a single cabin at a discount. When a travel buddy asked to share, Hurtigruten moved my booking and we could pay separately. The fare was in USD and I used a Canadian credit card that doesn’t charge a 2.5% foreign exchange fee. Several people have indicated in the Facebook groups and community forums that booking at the Norwegian site in NOK is considerably cheaper than booking at the US or UK sites.

 

If you found this post helpful, please share it by selecting one or more social media buttons. Have you travelled on a Hurtigruten Norway Coastal Express voyage? How does your experience compare to mine? Please share your thoughts in the comments. Thank you.

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