Dine at the best restaurant in Cuba: La Guarida, Havana

For a unique dining experience at the best restaurant in Cuba, head to La Guarida in Havana.

La Guarida (The Hideout) in Centro Habana has been attracting a growing clientele of Cuban and international patrons since it opened its doors in 1996. Over the years, it has earned its place as Havana’s most renowned and revered dining establishment; in 2024, it was awarded the Best Restaurant in Cuba at the prestigious World Culinary Awards.

Support local enterprises

Tourism is critical to the Cuban economy, and in the last few decades, it has elevated the economic status of Cubans who provide goods and services to tourists. My travelling companion and I avoided state-run enterprises and, as much as possible, supported small private businesses such as casa particulars (guest houses) and paladars (family-owned restaurants).

The celebrated paladar La Guarida was another opportunity to put money directly into the pockets of working Cubans.

Best restaurant in Cuba

La Guarida has long been deemed the best restaurant in Cuba for traditional cuisine and experimentation involving creative twists to Cuban favourites.

Location

My friend, Janet and I explored the area of Centro Habana on foot. It wasn’t as touristy as Habana Vieja (Old Havana) that’s in a constant state of reconstruction to transform architectural masterpieces of the colonial and pre-revolutionary eras to their former glory. Centro Habana felt like a forgotten sibling. As such, we were intrigued by the buildings, the people, the old cars, and the neighbourhood’s raw appeal.

Located in an unassuming building in densely populated Centro Habana, the exterior belies the charm of this third-floor restaurant. There’s not much about the outside, except for the sign, that differentiates the building from others in a neighbourhood dotted with the crumbling shells of architectural treasures.

The massive double wooden doors speckled with layers of cracked paint offer a clue to the historical significance of the 1903 building.

The next clue was the grand marble and wrought iron staircase, curving its way to the next level. A decapitated statue greeted us at the bottom of the stairs, and peeling paint, crumbling walls, and classic mouldings accompanied us on the way up. Like so many other magnificent buildings in Havana, its dilapidated state offered insights into an earlier era of opulence and elegance when fine buildings such as this were owned by wealthy families.

The building was one of the grand mansions of Centro Habana that, in post-revolutionary Cuba, have been divided into multi-family tenements. The open space on the first floor of what was formerly known as La Mansión Camagüey suggested that decadent receptions were hosted here in bygone years. Today, the faded opulence is slowly being restored. Clotheslines attached to marble columns zigzag across the space, evidence of just one of the daily chores of the families that occupy the lower floors. Or perhaps the restaurant takes advantage of warm breezes entering through the arched patio doors to dry tablecloths, napkins and drying cloths.

La Guarida occupies the entire third floor. Entering the reception area feels like infiltrating a not-so-well-kept secret. The intimate dining rooms in the front section are decorated with antiques and beautiful paintings. The eclectic mix of mismatched tables, chairs, cutlery, dinnerware, and glassware add to the ambience. The kitchen and restrooms are located in the back. A rooftop deck with spectacular views is above the restaurant, accessed by a circular staircase. It’s all a stark contrast to the decrepitude and faded grandeur of the lower floors.

Photo credit: La Guarida

La Guarida came into prominence in the early 1990s when Cuban director Tomás Gutiérrez Alea used it as a filming location for the Oscar-nominated Cuban film Fresa y Chocolate (Strawberry and Chocolate). Miscellaneous ephemera from the film are on display.

Our meal

Everything I’d read in my pre-trip research pointed to a satisfying dining experience. We took a risk and chose not to lock ourselves into a reservation. By the time our self-guided walking tour brought us to 418 Concordia Street, it was 2.00 pm. We ventured inside, and to our delight, could be accommodated.

As we were perusing the menu, a server took our drink orders and returned with our drinks and a complimentary appetizer of Malanga Fritters.

We drooled over the many delectable possibilities on the bilingual menu. A group of American women at the next table were singing the praises of Carpaccio pulpo (octopus Carpaccio), and we ordered it as a shared appetizer. It was incredible!

For a main meal, my friend Janet chose Pescado Vegetales (grilled fish of the day, tomato vinaigrette, sweet potato and banana chips). She sang its praises.

I chose Cochinillo lechal confitado, reduccion naranja, miel (Suckling pig, orange honey reduction). It was to die for.

Vegetables and rice accompanied our main courses.

The presentation of all plates was attractive and unpretentious.

I ordered Cuban beer, and Janet enjoyed a mojito and a glass of white wine.

The meal wasn’t as cheap as what we’d encountered elsewhere, but we were more than satisfied with the outcome. The bill arrived in an attractive wooden box.

The verdict

In a country where ingredients can be difficult to obtain, kitchen staff worked miracles with what they had. The dining room staff were attentive, and the service was exquisite. La Guarida delivered in all areas: taste, presentation, service, atmosphere, and value.

Reservations are essential, especially for evenings, and these can be made online. Also, leave plenty of time to get there as the table is held for 15 minutes only.

La Guarida, Concordia No. 418, between Gervasio and Escobar, Centro Habana, Cuba

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