Updated March 5, 2026
Youthful misadventures abound in the Ernie Diaries motorcycle adventure 1973, a book that chronicles the travels of Ernie, an old Norton ES2 that took two ordinary people to extraordinary places in an earlier era.
Ernie Diaries motorcycle adventure 1973
The book is a collaborative effort of Anne Betts and Des Molloy, the two adventurous twenty-somethings who set out from London in 1973 with a rough plan to reach Israel and Palestine via the Arctic Circle. The five-month journey ended in Iran when Ernie was traded for three Persian carpets after efforts to visit the chosen destination were derailed by the Yom Kippur War.
Along the way, the highlights of each day were recorded in a journal, along with clippings, photographs, and sketches. After a gestation period of 50 years, it was during the global pandemic with the help of the journal and associated paraphernalia, along with two sets of memories that differed, converged, and expanded, The Ernie Diaries became a reality.
The era
These were the days when travellers of limited financial means could free camp on exquisite stretches of coastline before they were dotted with five-star resorts. It was a time when face-to-face interaction with others was the social tinder that inspired and informed travel plans, long before laptops and other electronic devices made travel research a more solitary pursuit.
If you travelled in the days before email and ATMs, you’ll relate to references to Poste Restante and traveller’s cheques. For those who rely heavily on the internet to meet up with others, you’ll appreciate how difficult it was ‘back then’ to execute a rendezvous. If you’re a motorcyclist, you’ll relate to descriptions of how we glued together a broken piston in Norway and dealt with other challenges associated with motoring on two wheels. But most of all, everyone will undoubtedly see themselves and the curiosity, naivety, and resilience of their youth in The Ernie Diaries.
Reviews
It has been a honour to see many positive reviews, especially those published in reputable motorcycle publications.
by George Lockyer, Bike Rider Magazine
Traverse Magazine, Australia
Old Bike Australasia
“…Anne and Des, once strangers until they found themselves in the mix of the nutty ’70s-era London, on a whim decided to motorcycle to Iran. Des, a proficient mechanic, chose a well-battered 1957 Norton ES2, in part because this elderly non-runner needed lots of work, and cost only £40! Anne had a tendency to see the funny side of life, and part of the fun is her descriptions of the shenanigans they got into around the decision to buy that bike.
There’s a lot of laughs in this book. The descriptions of the era are simply brilliant. They’re down to earth, incredibly honest and full of almost naive optimism—the world has changed so much since then. I loved reading about the friendships they made and the mad escapades that often involved too much British Bitter.
I was fascinated by the range of jobs they found, and how sleeping 10 to an apartment for two was just something you did back then. This was a time of, “We can make it happen if we have a go.” Wings were being stretched and through hard work and innovation, dreams came alive. Serendipity played a major part in many of their tales—and they were wide open to opportunities, often making the most of some really quirky happenstances along the way.
It begins with the duo setting off for Scandinavia utilizing handmade plywood panniers and inefficient camping gear, and a small tool kit that was just enough to release Des’s inner MacGyver. Thus equipped, they wound their way through Eastern Europe and into the Balkans and Greece before crossing Turkey to Iran, experiencing all the quirkiness and challenges of the era.
Their storytelling reminded me of how much things have progressed and how even something as effective waterproofing is such a game-changer in ensuring a great trip. This is a story of some harsh adventures, but also of laughter, awe, respect, boundary stretching, amazing luck, and of others they meet on the road. We easily forget that not long ago there were no cell phones, GPS, or Internet, and The Ernie Diaries offers a glimpse into what motorcycle adventure travel life was all about back then. Yet, what’s not different from today, are the incredible landscapes, the amazing kindness of people, and the opportunities for smiles and self-discovery.
The Ernie Diaries was so fascinating, I read it twice! The first time with the itch to see what happened next. The second to pick up on the tiny details and descriptions that are woven into the story so neatly.”
by Sam Manicom, Adventure Motorcycle Magazine
Plus a favourite from Jill and Ken Duncalfe, two intrepid Kiwis we met along the way who figure prominently in the chapters on Turkey and Iran:
Dear Anne and Des:
We loved your book! Neither of us could put it down. Although it wasn’t ours, your story was so familiar. The attitudes, values, love of the unknown, looking for adventure, sense of being bullet-proof, the tight budget and money saving techniques, and all those conversations and places were so familiar.
I’m writing this sitting in our bus at Miranda, wondering how those travellers would see us now. The luxury, the quality of our warm clothes, a comfortable bed, we can stand up inside, and walk from the bed to the bathroom. A bathroom!
Thank you for your story – for bringing to life our memories and connecting us to the people we once were. We loved your writing styles and are in awe of your journal keeping and memories.
Warm regards,
Jill and Ken Duncalfe, New Zealand
Available in various formats
- An ePUB or PDF version can be purchased from Kahuku Publishing at a cost of NZD10 (AUD 9, CAD 8, EUR 6, GBP 5, USD 6).
- For Kindle and paperback versions, check out your nearest Amazon store.
- New Zealand readers can purchase a paperback copy from the small, independent Kahuku Publishing for NZD32 plus $8 postage. Another advantage of supporting Kahuka Publishing is that co-author Des will send an autographed copy. For inquiries about international shipping costs, contact Des at Kahuka Publishing.
- Canadian readers can get a print version from Chapters Indigo for CAD 27.99 with free shipping on a $35 order. Rakuten Kobo sells an ebook for $11.99.
- USA readers might want to check out Thrift Books to obtain a paperback version for USD 18.07 and free US shipping. Barnes and Noble offers a price of USD 20.99 with access to free shipping when a spending threshold of $40 is met. Take advantage of the opportunity to buy a second one for a friend or loved one!
- If you’re in the UK, visit Blackwell’s for a paperback copy for GBP 13.99.
- Australian readers might want to check out Booktopia where the listed price for a paperback is AUD 31.75.
Other motorcycling adventures
The Ernie Diaries was Des’s fourth effort, following on the heels of:
- No One Said it Would be Easy: A youthful folly across the Americas on old bikes
- The Last Hurrah: From Beijing to Arnhem (Second Edition)
- Zen and The Last Hurrah: In the wheel-tracks of Robert Pirsig across back country America
His latest is The Big Sit: A Long Lap of Australia on a Classic Bike.
To learn more, please visit Kahuku Publishing.
Hopefully you’ll enjoy the journey with Ernie as much as Des and I did. Thank you for your interest and support. For other insights on what it was like to travel in the 1970s, you may be interested in my post, 45 Features of travel in the 1970s. What’s better? Then or now?
Care to pin for later?
Can’t wait to read it!